Not the River Lee, 18th October.

The usual ‘elf and safety we have become accustomed to was not apparent as, without a lifejacket in sight, we steamed up the mighty River Gambia towards Janjanburay. 'Balance, balance, or we overturn' shouted the Captain, as we all went to starboard to look at a snoozing Hippo. We eventually glided gracefully into the riverbank and leapt off into Kunkilling forest. Within 5 minutes the main target, Adamawa Turtle Dove was posing for photographs. Klass's Cuckoo, Swamp Flycatcher, Violet Turaco, Snowy-crowned Robin-chat, Greater Honeyguide and White-backed Vultures on the nest, all showed well within the next hour or so.
We returned to the rather shambolic Bird Safari Camp, where we were staying for 4 nights during this short, hastily arranged trip to The Gambia. Although the birds were good, notably Verreaux's Eagle Owl, African Scops Owl, Red-shouldered Cuckoo-shrike and Standard-winged Nightjar, the camp has long passed its glory days. Having stayed at the coastal sites in my previous trip 15 years back, I was keen to explore along the length of the river, starting inland and sailing down to the coast. These higher reaches, beyond the tidal influence, were swollen with muddy water and the margins supported good areas of hot and humid forest.
The journey along the river by boat and minibus provided good numbers of the usual species. Egyptian Plovers were the highlight at two wetlands on the north bank. This excellent site held huge numbers of waders and herons, with Senegal Thick-knees, Pratincoles, Squacco Herons and Greenshanks everywhere.

Cruising along the upper reaches of the river provided close views of Black-headed Herons, Striated Heron, Osprey, African Fish Eagles, Martial Eagle, Red-necked Falcons, Hammerkop, Hadada Ibis, Spur-winged Goose, White-faced Whistling-duck, Broad-billed Rollers and Woodland Kingfisher. Chimpanzees, Baboons, Red Colobus and Green Vervet Monkeys appeared at intervals along the banks.

It's always good to have the lady along to help find birds.
"I've got a large orange and blue bird at the back of the wetland" she said.
"okay, whereabouts?" said I.
"oh it's washing".
"okay, but whereabouts is it?"
"it's washing"
"Yes, I heard you, but where is it?"
"No, it's washing, on a line."

The middle reaches; Tendaba, 23rd October

We landed at Tendaba quay to be met by a multitude of tiny kids all keen to grab hold of, and carry, something. A mass of little hands carried scopes, rucksacks and bags into the camp in exchange for a few Delasis. We dined on roast Warthog and retired to the sweatiest night I can remember. The alarm, half hour before dawn, was a long time coming. The early morning boat trip cruised through the mangrove swamps and creeks. Here, the main river is saline and tidal. Blue-breasted Kingfishers, Mouse-brown Sunbirds and Oriole Warblers mixed with the more familiar Whimbrels, Avocets, Little and Caspian Terns. Anhingas, Great White Egrets, Woolly-necked Storks and Goliath Herons peered down from adjacent trees and West African Crocodiles and Monitor Lizards loafed on the banks. A White-backed Night Heron on its nest almost gets knocked out of the way as the boat passes.

The coast; return to Kotu Creek, 25th October.

I was keen to see how the Kotu area I had roamed around 15 years previously had changed. Standing on the banks of the Kotu 'pools' (aka the sewage works) watching sandpipers, shanks and stilts feeding around the disgorging tankers brought back memories of Wisbech in its heyday, or even the string of small sewage works along the Lee Valley.
Surprisingly, Kotu Creek appeared to have changed little apart from increasing growth of mangrove and some small areas now inaccessible. The Giant Kingfishers were almost in the same tree and the mudflats were full of waders and herons. White-faced Scops Owl, Bearded Barbets, Lizard Buzzards, Fanti Saw-wings, African Thrush and Blue-bellied Rollers were amongst the many species performing well.
Royal, Lesser Crested and Sandwich Terns fished just offshore, Grey-headed Gulls and a single Kelp Gull flew south.
Although only a brief visit, the area still seems very 'birdy', with the key areas intact despite the obvious increase on development over the years. Meanwhile, our airline had gone bust! Oh well, an extra day on the beach, Ladyfish for dinner, and plenty of Julbrew.